Saturday, October 2, 2010

Perth Revisited

Travels down the west Australian coast
After leaving Mataranka, we made a hurried trip to Perth via Katherine, Halls Creek, Broome, Port Hedland and Carnarvon. The trip was very rushed but we did manage to spend a day at a camp site called Barn Hill, 100 kms south of Broome. This was a well known spot amongst the Grey Nomads and we only found out about it through a lady we got chatting to in the hot springs at Mataranka. Lots of the nomads spend up to 3 months of the winter there and just love it.


Amazing scenery through the Kimberleys

Barn Hill Station beach at sunset and 9m low tide
Our trip as usual had car problems and this time the alternator was not charging the battery as we were travelling along. This meant a full battery charge every night from a powered site or motel. Our trip was therefore somewhat decided for us, by not being able to travel after dark (couldn’t afford to drain what was in the battery with headlights), no music and having to stop in populated spots when there were many beautiful free camp spots we would have loved to have stopped at. The worst being Port Hedland, when we got to the caravan park at 4:30 pm there were no camp spots left, just cabins. At $225 per night we were outraged but unfortunately desperate. No wonder WA is complaining about a two speed economy, with mining towns charging a fortune for services and not caring at all about tourists. Anyway, luckily for us our insurance company covered our accommodation costs until we got to Perth.

We saw some lovely spots on the way down the WA coast and we plan to go back north and visit Monkey Mia, Ningaloo Reef and Doug especially wants to get back up to Barn Hill and explore around Broome, and Sue wants to get to Karajini Gorge. So while our holiday has taken a different turn again we still plan to fill in the last 3 months as fully as we can.
Sue swimming at Barn Hill

Doug and Sue playing in the sand
Doug swimming at Barn Hill in the morning
in 30 degree heat
Dry river bed in Pilbara region
Pilbara scenery
Pilbara scenery just before sunset

Monday, August 23, 2010

Alice Springs to Mataranka – “The Long Way Round”

Alice Springs to Mataranka via the Savannah Way
Doug holding up the Devils Marbles
Sunset at Karumba
The Big Croc at Normanton
The GulfLander train
1000 head of cattle crossing our path
Last remaining water over the Leichardt Falls
Palm trees at Adels Grove, Lawn Hill
Canoeing at Lawn Hill Gorge
Freshwater crocodile at Lawn Hill Gorge
Fossils at Riversleigh Fossil Site D
Riversleigh
Water crossing
Waterlillies
Southern Lost City limestone formations
Trailer on side after crash
We left Alice Springs after 5 days of running around after mechanics and headed north along the Stuart Highway. After much deliberation we decided to follow the bitumen and headed for the Barkly Highway which would take us through to Mt Isa and on to the start of the Gulf Track (part of the Savannah Way) at Normanton. We passed through Ti Tree and Barrow Creek and spent a lovely sunset at the Devil’s Marbles south of Tennant Creek. One of the many sandstone formations we have visited on this trip. We decided to drive all night and passed through Tennant Creek and on to the Three Ways which takes you either north to Darwin or east to Mt Isa.

We passed through Mt Isa and camped at Mary Kathleen. A ghost town that was built in the 70s as a support town for the Uranium mine that was in operation. However, the mine was closed down and the town dismantled. All that is left are the streets and concrete pads where houses and shops once stood. Nature and cows have taken over, but it was a great place to camp for free for a couple of days. We headed on to Cloncurry and restocked the larder for the trip north. We took what we thought would be a deserted dirt track, however, it was quite a busy bitumen road with many grey nomads also taking the trip north. After a sleep over on the track just outside a station called Bang Bang, we arrived in Normanton early in the afternoon and took a small tour around town, then headed 70 kms north to Karumba, where fishing was one of the major tourist attractions. Not being “fisher people” a lot of this area was wasted on us and many of our fishing friends would be devastated at missing out on such places. Karumba is one of the only places on the Gulf of Carpentaria that can be accessed by bitumen road, thus a very busy place and part of the grey nomad trek. It is also one of the few places in Queensland where the sun sets over the water and so sitting at the local bar and watching the sunset is a must do in Karumba.

After leaving Karumba we headed back to Normanton for a photo opportunity with The Big Croc. This is a replica of an actual saltwater crocodile (to scale) that was shot and killed in the local area. Sue is of course very crocodile phobic, so many small creeks and water holes were treated with major caution no matter how hot the weather was and how inviting the water! Unfortunately we missed out on a train trip on the Gulflander, which runs once a week from Normanton to Croydon and does weekend tourist trips. But Doug was very happy to visit the museum.

We left Normanton and headed west to Burketown along the Gulf Track. Along the way we stopped for about 15 minutes as at least a thousand head of cattle were mustered from one paddock to another across the road. We could not believe how many cows there were, but the north of Queensland and the Northern Territory is so lush that cattle have so much feed and are in such good condition. We also passed through one of the Burke and Wills camps as part of their epic but fatal trek north from the Cooper Creek at Innaminka to the Gulf of Carpentaria. We are amazed at how these people trekked without any of the modern conveniences we take for granted. We continued on to Leichardt Falls on the Leichardt River (also named after one of the northern explorers) and enjoyed a camp fire and a clear night under millions of stars. At the falls there aren’t any crocs, however in the river above there are warnings and there was a dead body of a baby crocodile found around the water crossing. We took note and didn’t take a dip in the water. The next day we were back on bitumen and headed for Burketown. It seems this was the start of many small and annoying problems with the car and camper trailer. The corrugations on the previous part of the track had jiggled a few things loose and we had to bolt down batteries and gearbox coolers as well as tighten every loose nut we came across.

After leaving Burketown we headed for Lawn Hill National Park. We had been told by travellers that it was worth the detour, plus Sue had wanted to visit the Riversleigh Fossil site south of the Lawn Hill Gorge. Both places were well worth the trip and we spent 3 lovely days camping at Adels Grove just outside the National Park. The Grove is covered with trees and provides a shady respite and a swimming area free of Saltwater Crocodiles. Not necessarily free of Freshwater Crocs though, but we were assured they were not interested in eating us. Although we would make a banquet for quite a few of them I am sure…not much dieting going on between us! Anyway the thing to do at Lawn Hill Gorge is to hire canoes and paddle to the waterfalls upstream. We had a great time slowly paddling up this beautiful gorge and along the way came across a small freshwater croc sunning itself on a log. Doug was able to get out the video camera while Sue paddled backwards to get a good picture, but the croc had had enough of us and jumped into the water before the camera could be got out as well. We spent a leisurely paddle back down looking for crocs, but the closest we came was a big splash into the water before we could sight the croc.

We headed north to Doomadgee and back onto the Gulf Track and stopped at the roadhouse for an ice cream and cold drink. Entry to the community is by permit only so we headed via Hells Gate (another rocky formation) on to Borroloola in the Northern Territory, bush camping along the way.

The Gulf Track was quite rough and rugged along the way and many corrugations made the journey a bit tedious, but every now and then we come to a water crossing with such lovely scenery that made the trip worth the effort. At Borroloola we were told that camping at King Ash Bay was lovely, so we took a 40 km detour to have a look. Once again we apologise to the fisher folk, but there was nothing but fishing to do here. Some people come here to sit and fish and that’s it, so we got on our way and headed for the Lost City formations that were in the area. But not before another minor irritation with the car with the loss of one of our mud flaps and the wearing out of a fan belt. While Doug was able to do the repairs, it took a couple of hours without the right tools at hand, and none of the mechanics were interested in such a small job. But we got to spend a bit of time watching the locals at this busy community and stocked up on fresh fruit and vegies since the once a week delivery arrived that day.

From here the Gulf Track heads north to the Nathan River and Roper Bar. By now we had had enough of the Savannah Way and decided to drive through the night to Mataranka and the thermal pools for a relaxing rest.

But disaster struck!


In the wee hours after many, many, many corrugations, dips and water crossings we hit an unmarked washout in the road and crashed the trailer onto its side. There are many pictures attached. Our detective work on what happened and what we saw in the rear vision mirrors is this…

We hit the washout and broke the suspension springs on the passenger side of the trailer. The collapse of the springs caused the wheel to jam into the guard, effectively stopping that side and caused it to flip right over and gouge a track into the ground. It completely flipped 1 ½ times and ended up on its side with the safety chain completely wrapped around the tow hitch. The only reason it was able to flip over was because of the 4WD swivel hitch we had attached to the troopy. And this probably saved us from also flipping the troopy and causing us injury.

Anyway we couldn’t unhitch the trailer because of the chain wrapped around the tow hitch and the tension on it. So we were stuck in the middle of nowhere unable to move forward and get help. Luckily our mapping system, GPS and the foresight of Doug to add a booster aerial to the bullbar meant we knew where we were and could contact help on the mobile phone. Once again RACQ came to the rescue and contacted a local tow company for us (and by local…200 kms away). While they didn’t pay for the tow they did arrange for everything and were such a comfort to us at the time. We would like to thank all the people who came across us during the day as we waited for the tow truck. Everyone offered assistance where they could and made sure we had enough water. But we are especially grateful to the couple of Queensland lads with bolt cutters and brute strength who cut the trailer loose and righted it for us.

Our insurance company have assured us they will pay for the recovery, but we won’t know until Monday when they find out that a 200 km tow will cost around $1300. Anyway the troopy is fine and so we drove to Mataranka as per our original plan and are awaiting what is to be done with the trailer repairs, how much it will cost and what to do next. But we are happy, safe and splurging on a motel stay in air conditioned comfort for a few days. And will be heading to Perth for the 50th wedding anniversary of Doug’s parents on September 3rd.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

On the Road Again!

Well after a long stay in Adelaide we have hit the road again and it didn’t take long for the adventures to begin.

We left Adelaide on a cold, rainy Friday night about 8 pm and decided to drive all night and get as far north as we could. We spent our first night driving through Port Augusta and then on to Coober Pedy by late afternoon. We camped at the underground camp ground and went for a short tour around town. We then decided to find out which was the best route to take north. Many travellers had told us there was water in Lake Eyre and worth a fly over, so we headed for William Creek. We had wanted to go via the Painted Desert, but the road was closed due to flood waters and recent rain. When we arrived in William Creek we found that the flights were booked out for days, so we took the 4WD track to Halligans Bay and saw water, a once in a lifetime event!

Our next trek was back to William Creek and north along the Oodnadatta Track. We left William Creek about 6 pm and arrived at Oodnadatta at approx 11 pm. It would have been sooner, however we got bogged in a particularly muddy part of the track about 10 kms south of Oodnadatta. Unfortunately car troubles struck again and we found that we couldn’t engage 4WD. After much swearing by Doug, we ventured into the mud and luckily found a tree that was capable of withstanding the winch and we winched ourselves out sideways. The troopy and trailer were up to the running boards with mud and half of Doug’s leg as well.

We decided that we would have to get back onto bitumen (with no 4WD) however, that meant following the Oodnadatta Track all the way through to Marla. While most of the track was great to travel on, there were some very muddy patches that were quite treacherous and you could feel the mud pulling you every which way. And Sue hit a kangaroo! But not just a kangaroo, a mummy one with a joey in her pouch. After much tears and angst, Doug was able to get the joey out and since it was quite large we felt confident it would be able to survive on its own.

Continuing along the track we reached Marla at 4 am, and headed for the Northern Territory border. We pulled up for a 2 hour sleep and then took to the road again to reach Alice Springs on Monday morning. We had mail there for collection and rocked into town only to find it was a Public Holiday. So we are happily camped in a caravan park, constantly pulling mud off the troopy, the trailer and shoes. Meanwhile Doug has tried every mechanic in town to fix the 4WD for the rest of the trip. Even though everyone in town is busy for weeks (great for them, not for us!), we were able to get it fixed and are on our way tomorrow. It looks like we will take the Sandover Hwy to Mt Isa, continue on to Normanton and follow the Savannah Way or Gulf road around to Darwin. Well that’s the plan at least!


1. Map of Oodnadatta Track.
2. Doug at Lake Eyre
3. Dead fish at Lake Eyre
4. Salt crust and muddy footprints at Lake Eyre
5. Swirling mud patterns in Lake Eyre Mud
6. Bogged on Oodnadatta Track
7. Winch tree in background
8. Troopy after a wash
9. Muddy trailer

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

June Update

It’s been a long time since the last blog and while the time has been filled with working, catching up with family and friends, and travelling to and fro, we don’t feel like we have been on the year long trek we set out to take. It’s amazing how plans change and even more exciting things happen!

Sue finished working at Mandurah and Doug got a week's work in the Perth CBD drafting. So a little bit of money was earned, but made us realise how much we enjoy holidaying and don’t want to go back to work.

We spent a final week with Doug’s parents in Perth and flew back to Melbourne to pick up the troopy and trailer. We spent a freezing cold week in Melbourne making sure everything was to Doug’s satisfaction with the new gearbox. We decided to take the vehicle up into the mountains, so visited Marysville that was destroyed in the bushfires of Feb ’09. It was very sad to see how much of the town had been destroyed, but very uplifting to see people rebuilding and lots of other people visiting and putting money into the new community. We also spent some time visiting Sue’s old family home and primary and secondary schools; it’s amazing how much things change when you don’t visit very often. Finally, after all was satisfied with the vehicle we set off for Adelaide, via country Victoria. We passed through Bendigo, and headed west using a crazy GPS to take us through every small town and unused highway possible.

After a week in Adelaide with more freezing cold weather and lots of rain we are finally making plans to head north, however no decision has been made as to where and what route to take.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Perth Update

It’s been several weeks since we limped into Melbourne and then flew across to Perth. We stayed with the Senior McEwans for about 3 weeks and then this week Sue got a 5 week locum job working at the Mandurah Hospital (75 km south of Perth). We have been given wonderful accommodation to stay in as part of the job; we have a 3 bedroom, 2 storey townhouse on a canal estate, with canal and sea views. Doug couldn’t be happier…he’s a kept man!

We spent the last few weeks catching up with a few friends and family. We weren't expected to be in Perth for Easter, so we have missed catching up with some having been away on school holidays. But really we want to get back on the road, Northern Australia is calling us. Hopefully all car repairs will be made at the end of Sue's job and we will head back to Melbourne and the start our desert trek.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Planes, trains and automobiles

I don’t even know how to start this blog…since the last posting we have had a couple of dramas, starting with car troubles and ending in a plane flight to Perth.

After leaving our last beautiful location we headed for Hobart to do the final stretch of our Tasmanian adventure. Then Doug started hearing a noise from the gearbox he didn’t like. Several mechanics in small towns lead to a service in Hobart that declared the Troopy a ticking time bomb. Well the ticking didn’t last long and ½ hour after booking a non-refundable ticket on the Spirit of Tasmania to return to Melbourne and start the next adventure; the gearbox decided it only wanted to work in first gear, second gear and reverse. Well thank goodness for RACQ Ultra…a couple of phone calls and we were towed first to a caravan park, then from Hobart to Devonport where we able to limp onto the boat.

We decided that the best possible and most expensive gearbox available was the only thing that was going to get us through the rest of the trip. So we left the car and trailer in Melboure on Good Friday, poor Doug…tow truck, car, boat, car, train, tram and plane in 2 days!

Anyway we thought let's not waste the time we have, let’s visit the family in Perth…and maybe get some jobs. Maybe that will help pay for a gearbox that is worth more than the vehicle!

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

East Coast of Tasmania


















 


After a beautiful day at Cape Naturaliste, the next day was a big disappointment, with smoke from a bush fire choking us out. It was not close to us, but the wonderful view we had was obliterated. So we headed south via the Bay of Fires to stay with Doug’s aunt and cousin in St Helens. Like a lot of people they have made the sea change, from Perth to Tasmania and loving it! We had a wonderful stay and explored the Bay of Fires beaches. Even though the Bay of Fires is defined by blue sea, white sand and red algae on the rocks, this extends all the way down the east coast. We have stopped at some amazing beaches all the way down to Freycinet and Swansea.

We spent a day exploring Freycinet National Park and stayed at Friendly Point at the Friendly Beaches. And once again couldn’t help ourselves and went down a 4WD track. Well this one was signed as a hazard, but it wasn’t as difficult as some of the other tracks we’ve been down recently…probably to stop litigation! Anyway after a stop at the beach we noticed the axle on the trailer was cracked…so some investigation under the trailer showed it was actually nearly broken through. This suggested that we should brace the axle with anything we could find…2 jack handles, 2 hose clamps and fencing wire! Eat your heart out MacGyver! We made our way out of the National Park extremely slowly and headed for Swansea for some welding repairs and blogging.

1. Map of East Coast of Tasmania, 2. The Gardens, Bay of Fires, 3. The Hazards (Granite Outcrop), Freycinet National Park, 4. Friendly Beaches, 5. Friendly Beaches, 6. 4WD Hazard Sign, 7. Broken axle on trailer, 8. Swansea, view from where I am writing this blog.