East Coast of Tasmania

 


After a beautiful day at Cape Naturaliste, the next day was a big disappointment, with smoke from a bush fire choking us out. It was not close to us, but the wonderful view we had was obliterated. So we headed south via the Bay of Fires to stay with Doug’s aunt and cousin in St Helens. Like a lot of people they have made the sea change, from Perth to Tasmania and loving it! We had a wonderful stay and explored the Bay of Fires beaches. Even though the Bay of Fires is defined by blue sea, white sand and red algae on the rocks, this extends all the way down the east coast. We have stopped at some amazing beaches all the way down to Freycinet and Swansea.

We spent a day exploring Freycinet National Park and stayed at Friendly Point at the Friendly Beaches. And once again couldn’t help ourselves and went down a 4WD track. Well this one was signed as a hazard, but it wasn’t as difficult as some of the other tracks we’ve been down recently…probably to stop litigation! Anyway after a stop at the beach we noticed the axle on the trailer was cracked…so some investigation under the trailer showed it was actually nearly broken through. This suggested that we should brace the axle with anything we could find…2 jack handles, 2 hose clamps and fencing wire! Eat your heart out MacGyver! We made our way out of the National Park extremely slowly and headed for Swansea for some welding repairs and blogging.

1. Map of East Coast of Tasmania, 2. The Gardens, Bay of Fires, 3. The Hazards (Granite Outcrop), Freycinet National Park, 4. Friendly Beaches, 5. Friendly Beaches, 6. 4WD Hazard Sign, 7. Broken axle on trailer, 8. Swansea, view from where I am writing this blog.

North Tasmania

Well once again it’s been weeks since the last blog and we’ve been having such an amazing time in Tasmania. It has been such a fantastic surprise to explore Tasmania and find beautiful places, friendly people and relaxing experiences. We simply love it here…but we can see that the weather has been perfect most of the time and we are seeing it all at its best.

Since the last blog we travelled from Crayfish Creek to Wynyard along the north-west coast, then headed south again to a small town called Tullah. When we visited Trial Harbour (prior to the horrendous 4WD experience), we met a lovely couple from Victoria (Helen and Alex) who offered us their holiday house to use when they went back home. So we took up the offer and spent about 4 days (maybe 5…can’t even remember the days anymore!) enjoying their home at Tullah. Of course we explored the surrounds, first visiting Montezuma Falls via a 4WD track (I know Sue said never again, but hey we didn’t die the last time!). The falls are the largest single drop falls at 104 m…and can be viewed by a swaying footbridge 5 stories above the riverbed (see Doug’s video). We then went back to Zeehan (only 11 kms from the falls) to drive through the “Spray Tunnel”…an old mining tunnel shaped like a keyhole to take a boiler through the mountain. The dimensions are 3 m high x 2m wide…troopy just fitted. The next day we took a steam train ride on “Wee Georgie Wood”…the train goes around town and passes the house we were staying in. If you happen to be sitting on the toilet with the window open when the train goes by…well a little bit embarrassing! There were also a couple of dams in the vicinity and up at one dam wall we saw several platypus happily playing.

We started our northward travels again by passing through Cradle Mountain…however the weather had turned a bit wet and overcast, so we didn’t stop to explore any further than the heavily populated car park. We travelled on to Leven Canyon and camped the night. We were told by some campers to view the canyon in the morning, it would be worth it. So not being morning people at all…we made the extreme sacrifice of getting up before 9 am. Well it was worth it! It was (well words can’t describe, and the pictures do not do the canyon justice)…morning sunlight on the mountains, mist rising and falling over the tree tops and a roaring river below.

We then travelled through some glorious countryside to Burnie and on to a lovely town called Penguin…where of course they have run with the theme and not only have the Big Penguin, but penguin rubbish bins, penguin murals and anything penguin you could think of. From there we travelled to Sheffield, south of Devonport, where the town has reinvented itself by painting murals depicting life in the area on their public walls. There are some fantastic art pieces to see and worth the visit.

We decided to bypass Devonport (as we will explore the town when we finally leave Tasmania) and went south to Launceston. We decided to visit a town called Carrick on the way, as we were told there was a caravan and campervan gathering. At first we were told 400 caravans would be there, then it was 600 and finally in the town the number exploded to 1000. So we had a perverse desire to see this many caravans in one place…well it was packed, vans parked head to nose…not for us…we like to be well away from all the other tourists.

So once again since we knew we would be back to Launceston later, we just visited the east side of the Tamar River that connects Launceston to the sea. Absolutely beautiful, and surprising how much land all along the river without houses …oh to be rich and buy up a million dollar view for a heck of a lot less! Well next thing we know we found ourselves on the “Wine Route”, so a tasting was in order…yes we did buy and are still happily drinking.

The next part of our journey has been along the north-east coast…off the beaten track a bit. Most people take the route to Scottsdale and then on to St Helens and the Bay of Fires. We will get there the long way. At present we are at Cape Naturaliste north of the Bay of Fires. We have the campground and beach to ourselves, so we have indulged in a little “naturaliste” ourselves. Swimming and sunbathing in mid-March! So here we are again, stopped for a few days in sunshine and beautiful surrounds feeling sorry for all you poor souls suffering the daily grind at home.




1. Map of Travels (North Tasmania), 2. Early morning cuppa at Leven Canyon, 3. Leven Canyon, 4. Big Penguin, 5. Sheffield mural, 6. Doug with sickly wombat, 7. Weymouth, North East Tasmania, 8. Cape Naturaliste, N.E. corner

Video Link

After many attempts by Doug to upload his videos to U-Tube he has given up and just has them on his Facebook page. So if anyone is interested in watching some short videos here are the links. BTW you may need to be a Facebook member to view????

Putting up camper trailer         


and 

4WD Tassie

  
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Amazing Tasmania

We know it’s been weeks since the last posting, but Tasmania has had so much to offer; that between being out of range and being busy we haven’t had a chance to keep up the blog. We have now decided to alter our plans since our 4 weeks in Tasmania is far too short. We have only completed 1/3 of the island and we know there is so much more to explore; so we intend to spend at least another 4 weeks here and discover more of what this beautiful and interesting island has to offer.

We left Bruny Island and headed north for Hobart, via some interesting 4WD drive tracks. A single night in Hobart and we headed north knowing that we would be back there in a couple of weeks. We visited New Norfolk and headed out to Mt Field National Park and Russell Falls. We camped the night beside a creek and saw our first wild platypus…unfortunately all the creatures we want to see come out at night and pictures and videos are not forthcoming. We decided to explore this region a bit and headed out to Adamsfield an old mining town now overtaken by the bush. Again a bit of 4WDing, but mostly along forestry tracks. We passed a “hippie” camp (protesting/blocking logging in the region) and Doug popped in, then quickly left after reading one of the banners "Wash as least as possible". We also ventured out to Strathgordon and Lake Pedder; all part of the protests of the 70s and 80s for damming the Gordon and Franklin Rivers.

We moved on to Ellendale where Sue tried to track down some family history. Sue’s grandmother and greatgrandparents owned a farm in the region and after chatting to a very lovely lady at the local shop we were soon part of the
community. We were invited in for a cuppa and lamington and she had Sue on the phone chatting to one of the old locals about some of the local history. We were invited to a local wedding the next day to see if any of the other locals may turn up with knowledge of the family and farm. Anyway after being told where the farm was and being told to go through a cherry orchard where we could help ourselves (and we did), we took some photos and left details to see if any further local history could be discovered.

Since we were heading north and the weather was still fantastically warm we decided to head into the wild north west and get off the beaten track (well sought of). We stopped at Queenstown for a couple of days as the weather didn’t hold, so we did our first hotel stay which refreshed us. Queenstown is an old gold mining town that has fallen into disrepair and the environment surrounding the town is barren from acid rain. So not a pretty place to stop. However, we found a track to follow called the Bird River track that followed an old railway line. It was really beautiful as it followed the river and traversed old rainforest with tall ferns and gums. From there we travelled to Strahan on the mouth of the Gordon River and then on to Zeehan (also an old mining town falling into disrepair). Yet again we found a track to follow and found ourselves in the glorious seaside village of Trial Harbour where we had beachfront camping with a pounding ocean for a view.

Our next adventures are best described by Doug, as Sue has now vowed never to 4WD again (well nothing as treacherous as the Trial Harbour to Granville Harbour Track). The track we took was extremely difficult and at one stage we had to unhook the camper trailer and winch it up out of a creek bed that was covered with large boulders and a sandy base. It took about 3 hours and when we got out we camped in sight of a memorial plaque to 3 young men who had been killed when the bridge that had been there had washed away. We crossed several creeks with washed out bridges and a 16 km track took 11 hours to complete.

We continued to travel the Western Explorer Route and passed through some amazing scenery that is not on the usual tourist route. We free camped for about 5 days and in the last 2 days we have travelled a considerable distance from Arthur River to Smithton and on to Stanley. Finally we have a night in a cabin not far from Stanley and a wonderful spa bath has renewed us no end. So finally a blog to catch everyone up with our travels and to let all know we are alive (amazingly) and well.








1. Map of our travels so far, 2. Adventure Bay, Bruny Island (taken from the front of our tent), 3. Snow gum after rain and wind Mt Field National Park, 4. Storm over catchment dam, Mt Field, 5. Lake Pedder, Gordon Dam, 6. Old Fencing on Cooper Farm, Ellendale, 7. Oast House for drying hops, Cooper Farm, 8. Cooper Farm, 9. Tree Ferns on Bird River Track, 10. Lindsay River in Arthur Pieman Conservation Area.